I’m not sure when my fascination with Machu Picchu began. I think it was a few years ago when I read a story to my students about Hiram Bingham’s expedition to Peru in search of the lost city of the Inca. As the author described the perfectly cut stones that did not require mortar and the mystery surrounding the people who had lived there, I became intrigued with this legendary city.
The purpose of this trip was three-fold: I wanted to experience the Peruvian culture to gain an insight and understanding that I would be able to share with my students; I wanted to scout it out as a possible trip for students in our global studies program; and of course, I was fulfilling my dream of trekking to Machu Picchu, just has Hiram Bingham and the Inca had done so many years ago.
Our journey to the ancient site began in Cusco, Peru, the former capital of the Inca empire. After dealing with a short bout of altitude sickness, we joined our tour group for the trek into the Andes mountains. While I expected the hike to be tough, I didn’t realize just how strenuous it was going to be. The intensity of the trek coupled with the lack of oxygen at high altitude made it the most mentally and physically challenging thing I’ve ever done. After only a few steps, we were gasping for air, so our trek leaders stopped to give us a break about every 20 minutes. (You know it’s tough when they bring along a horse and an oxygen tank and refer to it as the “Andean ambulance!”)
In addition, we were sleeping in tents and dealing with below-freezing temperatures at night and in the early mornings. While it may not sound like much fun, it was absolutely an amazing experience and worth every second. To be able to trek over the mountain peaks and through the valleys just as the Inca did so many years ago, to walk through unspoiled picturesque scenery without another tourist in sight, and to meet and talk with the local Andean farmers who live in such a remote location was a surreal experience unlike any other.
We were fortunate enough to be able to talk with a local farmer, Don Florencio, about his life in the mountains and what he does each day. He gave us a tour of his home (one room with a dirt floor) and explained how he wakes early each morning to take his flocks over the mountain to graze, he returns to work in his fields all day, retrieves his flocks in the evening and does it all over again the next day. As my husband said at the time, “You can’t be lazy and live in the Andes!”
While I assumed Mr. Florencio had been born into this lifestyle and he didn’t know any different, I quickly learned I was wrong when I began asking him questions about his family. He had indeed grown up on the farm with his parents and seven siblings, but he chose the life of a farmer. His brothers and sisters had all moved to big cities like Lima and Buenos Aires to study law or take on other professional jobs. While he had the same opportunities, he chose to stay because he loves the land and the serenity of the Andes.
After spending four days out there, I can’t say that I blame him! His little farm house had a view that would cost millions in the U.S. Although he lives on the farm, his wife and children all live in the valley, about a day’s walk, so that the children can attend school. From there, they, too, will have the opportunity to choose life on the farm or a life in the city.
After our visit with Don Florencio, we began our last day of the trek down into the Sacred Valley. As we descended into the valley, the landscape began to change from cold, arid mountain air to warm, humid jungle. After a half day of walking, we finally reached our stopping point -- a small town just outside of Ollantaytambo, the gateway to Machu Picchu. As we sat down to rest, eat lunch and celebrate the end of the trek, I began to experience a range of emotions. I was so excited and proud that I had survived the trek, relieved that it was over, and at the same time mourning the fact that our great adventure had come to an end. We had become so close to our teammates and leaders and had looked forward to this experience for so long that I didn’t want it to end quite yet! However, there was still one thing to look forward to: Machu Picchu.
There are so many rumors and theories surrounding this city that it can be hard to sort fact from fiction. In truth, we actually know for certain very little about the Inca and their massive empire because they left no written history. All we have are the ruins that remain, artifacts uncovered in those ruins and the writings of Garcilaso de la Vega, son of an Inca Princess and a Spanish father who shares in his book what he learned from his Inca relatives.
Perhaps the most intriguing part of the Inca history is their architecture and skill in building massive complexes. When you look at the stones, they are absolutely perfect and are joined without any mortar to hold them together. In fact, they fit together so perfectly that you cannot even fit a razor blade between them. They hauled these massive stones from quarries up to 32 kilometers away, then carved and shaped them to fit together like a massive puzzle. Because of their skill, these stones have remained for over 500 years and have withstood two major earthquakes in Peru.
Not only is the architecture amazing, but the sheer size of the empire is baffling. Ruins from the Inca civilization can be found from Ecuador down to Chile and Argentina. They built over 40,000 kilometers of roads (the most famous of which is the Inca trail that thousands of people still trek today). And they built all of this without modern tools or the wheel. When you sit and look at the complexes and temples that are still standing, it’s hard to imagine how they even began to construct something so astonishing.
While the landscape and architecture are amazing, my favorite part of traveling is always the people we meet along the way. Each time you encounter a new culture, your mind is opened a bit more and you return from your trip a little changed. I hope that when I share my travels with my students, I can help them see the world with a wider lens and that they can open their minds to new practices and perspectives. At the very least, I hope I can inspire them to get out and experience this great big world on their own. I am so grateful to Darlington and the Thatcher Faculty Development and Research Grant for allowing me the opportunity to fulfill a dream and to partake in such an amazing cultural experience.
Click here to read AP Government teacher and Thatcher Master Teacher Fund grant recipient Brant Evans' blog about this trip.
